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Tour de France 2022

With the recumbent bicycle through France

This summer Peter & Esther moved to the Cantal in France where they bought a camping farm. A nice goal to cycle there. We don't start from home, but travel by train through Germany to northern France. The cheap monthly pass that allows unlimited travel through Germany on regional trains for 9 euros during the summer months seems attractive. However, the huge crowds is also a thing to take into account. We therefore decide to leave early with as few changes in Germany as possible. The plan is to take the train from Arnhem via Wesel and Koblenz to Saarbrücken and from there start the cycle tour of France. Since there are no trains to Arnhem, we will cycle from home to the border, catching an early train in Elten the next morning.

Sunday 21/8 Amersfoort-Herwen (77 km, 191 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/105119855

The bike route first goes along the Valleicanal and then parallel to the railroad towards Arnhem. We are not bothered much by train traffic as there are no trains due to works. Around Ede-Wageningen station there are also many detours along the railroad line. The detour goes right through the new housing estate "Op Enka" on the former ENKA factory site.

After a beautiful ride through the Veluwe we descend to Arnhem and then over the dike along the IJssel and Neder-Rijn to Herwen. After pitching the tents at the Boschhof campsite, we go to the take-away Chinese restaurant in Lobith, where we order a beef tenderloin dish with noodles. We eat in the campsite's gazebo, where there is also a kettle, refrigerator and charging plugs. Great camping!

Monday 22/8 Herwen-Elten (4 km)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/100605137

In the morning at about six o'clock it gets light and we get up early. We can easily catch the eight o'clock train from Elten to Wesel because it is only fifteen minutes by bike to the train stop. Fortunately, the train is not crowded despite the super-cheap 9 euro ticket. In Wesel we transfer to the train to Koblenz. Here it is not crowded as well and there is still enough room for the bikes. Only from Düsseldorf it get really crowded. Fortunately, we did not transfer here, because that would not have been possible. Most travelers are senior citizens who seem to be doing a day trip to Koblenz. In Koblenz overcrowded platforms and long lines for the elevators. Fortunately, the train to Saarbrücken has some delay and we just barely catch it. This train is fortunately less crowded and follows beautiful stretches along the Mosel and Saar rivers.

Saarbrücken-Neufgrange (26 km, 89 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/100651680

After a long journey we reach Saarbrücken, a drab industrial town. The elevators here are much too small, only one bike fits, only in vertical position. We quickly leave the city on a bike path along the Saar. Without noticing we pass the French border and do some shopping at a large Intermarché in Sarreguimines. The St. Vit campground near Neufgrange is not far away. It turns out to be a huge sprawling bungalow park with a tiny tent site with some bicycle campers at the very back of the site. The facilities are ok, but very expensive (€28 incl. shower). Tomorrow towards the Vosges Mountains and the Col du Donon.

Tuesday 23/8 Neufgrange-Abreschviller (105 km, 1400 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/100730716

Up again today at six and on the road again shortly after eight. First one kilometer back cycling through the vast vacation village to reach the exit. After Hambach via wide cycle paths through an abandoned Europôle de Sarreguemines industrial area where probably a lot of EU subsidy money has gone up in smoke, nobody seem to cycle here. The route that Brouter has calculated soon proves to be illogical via dirt roads and roads that are forbidden, so we map out some alternatives ourselves. It goes up and down through an agricultural area, past small villages without facilities, with occasional views of the Vosges massif in the distance. It is French flat, meaning continuous climbing and descending. Only when we reach the Vosges mountains it levels off and we follow a beautiful towpath along the Canal de Marne au Rhin with many locks and red Bunter sandstone rocks until we start the climb to Dabo. We have a nice view of Roche de Dabo with a little church on top. Unfortunately, we don't have another opportunity to take a picture because brouter sends us back onto a super steep shortcut where in retrospect it would have been easier to follow the main road. In Dabo we buy some provisions because after this there is nothing at all, only forest. At the local campground (which seems to be closed) we have lunch and start the first serious col, the Col du Schleif. It is only a short climb and not too steep but I am completely annoyed by the huge clouds of flies circling around my head. I remember I've experienced the same thing on a previous trip to the Vosges, never been so bothered elsewhere. At the top of the col we climb some more on a reasonably passable Route forestiere des Russes, a gravel road. The slower we cycle, the more irritating the flies become. At a soft stretch of gravel my recumbent slips and I am down, fortunately without damage. When it gets steeper I have to walk again, which the flies like even better. Luddo is not bothered by the flies and thinks I am acting too much. He wants to continue on the dirt roads to the top of the Donon, but I can't take it any longer. Upon reaching the asphalt, I want to descend as quickly as possible to Abreschviller where a campground is located. In the descent we go too fast for the flies so no more trouble there. The small camping municipal is in the middle of the village, is simple but clean. We have a grassy area with a picnic table and chargers next to the tent. Showers are free and without push buttons and the price is a bargain at only seven euros for the two of us! We even are allowed to pick herbs from the herb garden. In short, much better than yesterday's boring vacation park. The weather is also fine, not too hot and sunny

Woensdag 24/8 Abreschviller – Corcieux (90 km, 1044 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/100822848

At 8:30 am we leave the campsite and cycle a bit to the west on a voie verte bike path.

Through small villages and very quiet B-roads parallel to the Route des Crêtes we climb to the Pierre Perceé reservoir. The views are somewhat disappointing (lots of forest) and only at the dam the route passes the reservoir. We descend again and via the voie verte de la Vallee de la Plaine we reach Raon l'Etappe. The route to Saint Die is very boring, a parallel road along a freeway with many settlements. By now it is hot, >30 C. From Saint Die we turn onto the D31 which runs through a quieter side valley to Corcieux. Through the woods it is much more pleasant and cooler here, although the D31 is still quite busy.

In Corcieux, we look for a campground. We look at one (Au Mica) but we find it too busy. Camping le Clos de la Chaume is also crowded but the site seems better. But it is still a lot more expensive (€26) than yesterday. Tomorrow we continue to Gérardmer and further.

Thursday 25/8 Corcieux-Villersexel (104 km, 935 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/100918466

Today another hot day and we start immediately with a climb from Corcieux to the col de Martimpré (796m). We can avoid the busy D8 until the col, by taking a super steep shortcut from Gerbépal. An irregular climb with max 16%. The climb turns out fine on my recumbent, no need to dismount anywhere. The short descent we have to take the busy road, but fortunately in Gérardmer there are bicycle lanes. We cycle past the campsite we planned for yesterday but it appears to be fully booked. Fortunately, we did not continue yesterday. Outside the city we start the next col, a short but steep climb over a quiet road to the Col de Sapois (833 m). Then downhill through beautiful scenery along voie vertes, bike paths on old railroad tracks through the Moselle valley until the last col of the day, col du Mont de Fourche (620 m) from Rupt-sur-Moselle. A 4 km long but less steep col with many hairpin turns to the plateau de Mille Etangs, a forested lake area. Up and down a bit here and then downhill to Lure. Here we look for a supermarket but it is hard to find one in this medium-sized town. In the large industrial area we miss a large E.Leclerc hypermarché completely and cycle to the city center, where all supermarkets on the OSM map appear to be closed. Nevertheless found a grocery store in the center and then another hour of cycling along a railroad bike path straight to Villersexel. The campground Le Chapeau Chinois is a quiet and cheap campground (€15). Continuing south tomorrow towards Besançon and the Jura.

Friday 26/8 Villersexel - Champagne sur Loue (99 km 826 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101024769

From Villersexel we continue the bike path along the river l'Ognon on a former railroad line. It is cloudy and less warm, a pleasant cycling weather. The bike path cuts through a hilly region a la South Limburg. Just before Rougemont, the bike path suddenly ends and the route crosses the TGV Rhin-Rhône line via an unpaved path, the route is clearly finished here "in the French style" (meaning sloppy). After Rougemont there is another stretch of railroad line/bicycle path, but it ends abruptly, as the route is still being extended.

Via quiet D-roads and smaller agricultural roads we cycle to Besançon and even come across cycling node routes. As we descend towards the city center, it starts to rain. When it starts to rain harder we take shelter under an awning at a bakery and order a pizza. When the rain persists we look for a better shelter. First a park but we find nothing there, then we go to an abandoned schoolyard with a large awning and picnic tables. Here we can hold out for a while. It keeps raining and on the rain radar we see that it gets drier a little to the south. The showers continue to hover over the city. After 2 hours of waiting it becomes drier and we continue cycling. Through the tunnel fluvial de la Citadelle (a bike path / canal tunnel under the citadel) we leave the center and follow the Eurovelo 6 on a beautiful bike path along the Doubs. The showers also leave again and after six we reach the Departement Jura, where we pitch our tents on a quiet campsite near Champagne-sur-Loue. Tomorrow we continue south through the Jura.

Saturday 27/8 Champagne-sur-Loue - Louhans (103 km 882 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101142712

This morning it is still foggy when we leave. We cycle south via Mouchard to the nice town of Arbois. From Arbois we climb gradually to the Cirque-du-Fer à Cheval via the Reculée des Planches, a beautiful rock formation along which the D469 winds. The road is quite busy. We leave the busy road after the impressive rock formations and climb further up a route forestiere, a poorly paved forest road through the Forêt de Arbois. The asphalt becomes gravel once we reach the top of the plateau. South of Poligny, we cycle along the edge of several canyons that the Seille River has carved into the karst plateau.

First, we throw a glance at the Cirque de Ladoye and then we cycle past the two viewpoints of Cirque de Baume. These are the most impressive, overlooking the village of Baume-les-Messieurs located at the bottom of the gorge valley. The expected traffic on the D471 towards Lons-le-Saunier is not too bad and we cycle right through the not very interesting town. In the center we see another Challenge recumbent (Chamsin) parked. Via wide cycle paths, again over old railroad lines, we reach Louhans where we camp next to the soccer stadium on the excellent and again very cheap (€11) municipal campsite. Tomorrow we continue in the direction of Mâcon.

Sunday 28/8 Louhans – Lamure sur Azergues (120 km 968 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101269723

In the morning we cycle back into town for a bit to do some shopping, as most stores are closed on Sunday. Along the Seille River we cycle out of the village on a voie verte bike path. In Branges we leave the rather boring voie verte and cross the Seille. On the quiet D167 the route heads south towards Mâcon. Although the route is fairly flat, it still goes up and down a lot. Along the way we end up in a cycling race and we pass nice towns like Romenay. In short, not a very boring ride at all and we can once again keep going, in contrast to the rather boring bike paths on former railroad lines where you have little view of the surroundings (lots of overgrowth of bushes and trees or deeply cut into the landscape). Villages are also often avoided, but most irritating are the numerous fences you have to meander around. In the placement of fences, the French have gone completely mad, they are even at crossings of field tracks! At noon, after 60 km, we reach Mâcon. We decide not to cycle directly into the hills, but to descend further along the Saône to postpone the climbing. The cycle path along the Saône turns out to be an unpaved gravel road which is partially closed, so we take some other shortcuts. At Thoissey we cross the Saône and cycle into the hills of the Beaujolais region at Belleville. First we follow again a voie verte (du Beaujolais) and towards Quincié-en-Beaujolais it is again climbing between the vineyards towards the col de Croix de Marchampt. A 6 km long, not too steep (5%) climb, but due to the hot stage in the lowlands we are already fairly cooked with already over 100 km on the counter. After a 9 km descent, we reach the campsite in Lamure at 6 pm. More of a bungalow park for migrant workers who work in grape picking and are transported by busloads full of them. No idea where they all have to stay at this small campsite...? The facilities for campers are also nothing to write home about, lukewarm showers and no wifi, in short, not recommended. Tomorrow further west, towards the Auvergne.

Monday 29/8 Lamure sur Azergues - Saint Thurin (88 km 1314 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/104333748

Hill ride with many small hills. Only the first one has a name, the Col de la Cambuse (7 km a 4%). From Lamure-sur-Azergues we first cycle south on a busy D385. A few kilometers outside the village we do some shopping at the Intermarché and then take a small road that leads via Grandris to the col. This col is fortunately not that difficult and it is still cool in the morning. Then we descend to Amplepuis after which another small hill follows on a small road to St. Claude. Then down again to St Symphorien and then another 7 km climb to Neulise. The last two cols are more difficult because of the heat. After lunch in Neulise we descend to the Gorges de la Loire. After St. Georges we continue west on a dead straight road to St Germain Laval where we end up in another cycling race (Grand Prix de Pommiers-en-Forez). There is a lot of cycling in this region and yet remarkably you see many less e-bikes than in the Netherlands or Germany. No more easy voie vertes either, so you have to love climbing in this region.

In St Germain-Laval it is still too early to stop, so we go ahead and do part of the planned ride for tomorrow. It starts again with a 7 km climb up to 700m to Saint-Martin-la-Sauveté. Because of the heat, I "encounter the man with the hammer" (Dutch expression for being exhausted) and Luddo can finally gather some points for the mountain classification. We finally descend to St. Thurin, where there is a camping municipal. There is no manager yet and showers with coins, so that will be a cold shower. The campsite is almost deserted but otherwise ok, good grassy field, unfortunately a lot of flies. So we cook in the sanitary block and pay later when the madame comes to collect money. The damage is not too bad, with €5.90 the cheapest camping so far! Further west tomorrow, showers are expected later in the afternoon, so we'll look for a campsite early.

Tuesday 30/8 St. Thurin - Orcet (78 km 946 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101439924

The day starts rainy, between the showers we quickly pack up the tent and through the light rain we cycle to Noiretable along a not very busy D1089. After a stop at the bakery we cycle further up to a col of 948m, a not too difficult climb through a beautiful wooded area of the regional nature park Livradois-Forez. The rain has stopped by now, only the flies are present again, fortunately not as bad as in the Vosges. After a beautiful descent with views of the Auvergne volcanoes, we pause in Vollore, where we can dry the wet tents and laundry on a nice covered picnic area. The public toilets in the villages are usually clean, and with toilet seats and toilet paper more luxurious than on many campsites. I also find a hose clamp with which I can fix my front derailleur which keeps dropping down (could only use the smallest front blade). The hard part of the stage is over, via Courpierre it is mainly downhill to Billom over nice little roads. Along the way there are looming thunderclouds but apart from a small shower it remains dry. For the planned campground in Billom it is still too early to stop so we cycle on in the direction of Clermont-Ferrand. The roads are now much busier but fortunately also provided with bicycle lanes. Via Cournon d' Auvergne we reach the campsite le Clos Auroy in Orcet. From a Dutch owner, a bit more expensive (€25) but also more luxurious than the previous campsite. Fortunately, the predicted showers stay away. Tomorrow we continue in the direction of Mont-Dore.

Wednesday 31/8 Orcet-LaTour d'Auvergne (61 km, 1454 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101544762

Beautiful ride through Auvergne, highlight and highest point until now!

From Orcet on busy roads to Tallende and St. Saturnin. There we deviate from the planned route which leads over too busy D-roads, and opt for the smaller inner roads. Turns out to be a fine and quiet route. A steep little road, the D119 climbs to Olloix. Via the D74 over undulating roads to le Vernet. On the way we see the Puy de Dôme for a while. Via a steep gravel road where I have to get off we reach the D5 to Murol, but we soon leave this road by taking another steep side road to the col de la Croix Morand (1401m). Eventually we do end up on the D996 to Mont-Dore but that road turns out to be very quiet. The climb is also very gradual and not steep and with nice views of the Puy de Sancy. At the top of the pass it is a lot busier. A short steep descent brings us to Mont-Dore, a nice tourist town. We had planned to camp here but it is still too early so we cycle a bit further. Via a super steep road out of town. This D645 flattens out after a few kilometers and leads through a wooded area to 1245m altitude. Then follows a beautiful descent to La Tour d'Auvergne where we find a small but nice Camping la Vallée (also not expensive €12). The home-made pizzas seem to be very tasty, but unfortunately are only on the menu from Friday. Otherwise, the hamburger with beef from the region also tastes good. Tomorrow we continue towards the foot of the Puy Mary, which we have already seen in the distance.

Thursday 1/9 La Tour d'Auvergne - Murat (79 km 1255 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101635306

We leave the Puy de Sancy area via the D203 past St. Donat. A nice village with a beautiful church. Then via small roads south to the Gorges de la Rhue and along the Rhue east to Condat. We are now in the Cantal. In Condat we doubt whether we want to cycle up the Puy Mary via the Col de Serre. Considering the weather forecast, this turns out to be too ambitious, so we cycle directly to Murat. After St. Bonnet we pass a beautiful railroad viaduct. Due to road works the D-16 ends and we have to backtrack. We thought we could pass it because of a sign "velorail access possible". However, this velorail turns out not to be a railroad

We cycle via the Col d'Entremont with beautiful views of the Puy Mary massif on the D3 to Murat. Fortunately, this "highway" does not appear to be too busy and the road climbs very gradually. After a quick descent we arrive in Murat, with the famous statue of Notre Dame de Haut Auvergne on a high rock above the village. The municipal campsite appears to be closed but there are other campers and no manager present (self-service at the gate). The facilities are fine, while the thunderstorm erupts we can cook in the recreation room.

Friday 2/9 Murat – Pouzols (45 km, 592 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101741652

This morning we want to cycle before the predicted thunderstorms to St. Flour where we have arranged to meet Peter, who wants to cycle a bit to meet us. A bit outside Murat it does indeed stay dry but soon it starts to rain. As we approach St. Flour it begins to rain harder and after an hour and a half we reach the pub, soaked, where Peter has also just arrived from Pouzols. After a coffee stop we get some sweet rolls and the weather has actually cleared up as we start the final stretch to Pouzols. On a small, beautiful but steep shortcut through Saint Georges we avoid the busy roads around St Flour and descend to the Truyère reservoir and the beautiful Viaduc de Garabit, designed by Gustave Eiffel. From the bridge it's another short climb to Peter and Esther's house in Pouzols, where we can stay in the gîte this weekend. Initially, the plan was to pitch the tents at their campsite La Source de Vie, but given the strong thunderstorms, a real bed turns out not to be a bad choice.

Saturday 3/9 Rustdag Pouzols

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101813031

Hike to Faverolles, do some tinkering on the bike and in the evening eat out in St. Flour.

Sunday 4/9 Pouzols – Le Puy en Velay (94 km 1539 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/101972088

Peter prepares for us a hearty breakfast of pancakes as a tough mountain stage awaits. A little before nine we leave Pouzols and Peter will accompany us until the first climb, le Portus d' Auzenc, some 27 km away. First we descend to the reservoir. Because my Avid BB7 mechanical disc brake was acting up, I was able to take over a Shimano XT hydraulic disc brake from Peter's old MTB and you notice it immediately, brakes many times better!

Viaduc de Garabit is still partly shrouded in mist, it remains impressive every time. We climb further under the viaduct. Peter operates the GoPro and takes many videos of us. He has to adjust his pace to our snail's pace and can now enjoy the scenery more.

We cycle on to Ruynes-en-Margeride, where a bakery is still open. Via the D4 we climb further, gradually up to about 1345m. There we eat some coffee rolls and say goodbye to Peter, who descends back home. We descend too, towards Saugues where we have to take a shorter but steeper climb to get to the gorges de Allier. The village of Monistrol d'Allier is beautifully situated among the basalt rocks. After lunch we climb out of the gorge. The climb is over 10 km long and the heat and lack of shade make this the toughest climb of the day. The descent compensates a lot, beautiful 360 degree views of the mountains of the Ardèche. After a quick descent on a wide tightly paved and quiet road, we reach the pretty town of le Puy-en-Velay, where we camp right across from the St. Michael rock with a church on top. The town campsite is quite busy but cheap (€12) and within walking distance of the town center. We take a nice walk through the downtown area in the evening and eat pizza at Embellie. The salmon pizza is disappointing but the calzone is tasty and filling. Tomorrow we continue east via the source of the Loire.

Monday 5/9 Le Puy en Velay – Saint Fortunat sur Eyrieux (108 km 1233 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102155957

We leave the campground at 8:30 am, do some shopping at the Super-U around the corner and leave town on separate bike paths. We cycle along the Loire to Coubon and continue southeast toward Mont Gerbier de Jonc, the source of the Loire. The climb is about 30 km long to a plateau 1400m high, runs very gradually on wide quiet roads. Only the strong headwind makes it a bit harder. By 3 pm we reach Mont Gerbier de Jonc and begin a very long beautiful descent through the rugged mountain landscape of the Ardèche, through narrow gorges and deep ravines. We also have to take shelter from a thunderstorm, but fortunately it lasts only briefly. The last stretch along the Eyrieux we follow another voie verte, La Dolce Via, a former railroad line. This one is partly gravel and quite muddy because of the many showers. We camp at the campsite of Saint Fortunat. A small, clean quiet campsite with sanitary facilities in the former station building. Tomorrow we continue in the direction of Vercors.

Tuesday 6/9 Saint Fortunat – Saint Jean en Royans (90 km 1338 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102155995

Today we decide not to cycle to Die to go into the Vercors tomorrow, but to do the Vercors today because of the expected showers. From the campsite we descend along the main road to the Rhone valley, which is faster than via unpaved Dolce Via cycle route.

We cross the Rhone via a nice narrow bridge at La Voulte, and try to avoid the main road eastward. However, the smaller shortcuts go up steeply at Livron, so we just follow the main roads again. At Allex, we turn onto the D125 which goes NO through Montoison and Montmeyran towards the Vercors mountains. These shortcuts are mean steep, lots of up and down. At Peyrus we start the Col des Limouches, 11 km long and 6% steep, not too difficult but the "flat" Rhone valley has already taken a lot of energy. The col is not too difficult and at 4 pm we reach the top. Via a very scenic descent through the Vercors we reach the campsite municipal in Saint-Jean-en-Royans before 5 pm. Tomorrow we'll continue through the beautiful Vercors.

Wednesday 7/9 St. Jean en Royans – Saint Laurent du Pont (88 km 1453 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102253922

Today another beautiful ride through the Vercors. Via the lovely town of Pont-en-Royans we climb into the Vercors massif along the Gorges de la Bourne. A very beautiful canyon, the road was much less crowded than I could remember from a previous cycling trip. After Rencurel, we climbed further up to the col de Romeyère. From Pont-en-Royans about 20 km of climbing at 4%. After the pass, we descend through the Écouges canyon, which fits pretty well into the category of most dangerous roads in France, what an impressive canyon. First we have to go through the tunnel. We have been anxiously awaiting it for days, but fortunately it is now lit and there are no oncoming traffic. Then we descend along the deep ravines of the Écouges. A very steep, narrow and winding road, which fortunately is well paved and virtually traffic-free. Because of the rocks on the road, I have to be very careful. I am very happy with Peter's disc brake! After a spectacular descent we cycle along the Isère river for kilometers on a boring bike path. The approaching thunderstorm is on our heels and we still haven't had lunch at 3pm. We didn't come across any picnic benches along this cycle path. We did encounter many cyclists with luggage and even one on an (Azub?) recumbent bicycle. When we want to leave the bike path, we finally find a picnic area. After lunch we continue for a few kilometers to Voreppe where we enter the Chartreuse Mountains. The thunderstorm is getting closer and we have to cross another col until the next campsite. The road to Col de la Placette is very busy (evening rush hour) and the climb still quite difficult. In the descent it begins to rain but the rain does not continue as we reach Saint-Laurent-du-Pont on a terribly busy D520.

In retrospect, it would have been better to follow the bike route west of this road, but the thunderstorm was on our heels and we wanted to reach the campsite as quickly as possible. Camping les Berges du Guiers otherwise turned out to be a fine municipal campsite. Tomorrow on through the Chartreuse on hopefully less busy roads.

Thursday 8/9 Saint Laurent du Pont - Seyssel (84 km 671 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102327712

Heavy thunderstorms last night with lots of rain, but fortunately we kept dry. In the morning the weather cleared up completely. At the campsite there is also a couple from New Zealand cycling from Amsterdam to Barcelona, even Amersfoort was mentioned and praised. We first do some shopping at the local Intermarché and now ignore the busy roads as much as possible. We pass the campsite in Entre-deux-Guiers where we stayed on a previous cycling trip and after Les Echelles we follow the D921 north. This climbs gradually through the beautiful landscape of the Chartreuse. We see many cyclists, most on unassisted road bikes, later many more e-bikers. The D road gets busier around Lac d'Aiguebelette. It is much more touristy here, with many campsites. Via Novalaise we reach Yenne, a nice little town. Our planned ride would end here, but since we cycle a little faster than planned (it is only 1 pm) we can continue a bit further. The route is much flatter now and we follow the Rhone on the Via Rhona cycle path. Lots of cyclists here, mostly on e-bikes. Along the impressive Grand Colombier we reach Seyssel where we look for a campsite. There are two, Camping International is just above Seyssel, so we have to climb a steep hill. The campsite is very quiet and otherwise fine. Tomorrow will be another tougher ride with a long climb to the Jura, goal is Les Rousses.

Friday 9/9 Seyssel – Morbier (95 km 1829 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102435455

Again we continue the Via Rhona cycling route north on quiet D-roads. Again we encounter many cyclists with packs, a popular cycling route. The route rises gradually to about 500m. Around Bellegarde we leave the cycling route which continues east towards Geneva and end up on busier roads. Near Eloise we can avoid the busy road for a part via a nice shortcut, but to get in and out of Bellegarde we have to go through traffic. Then we follow a quiet D991 north through the Haut-Jura, the road climbs gradually to a plateau of about 1000m. In Chezery-Forens we had planned a campsite, but we are still half a day ahead of schedule so we cycle on towards Les Rousses. After Mijoux the roads get busier again so we take a nice shortcut parallel to the main road. We avoid Les Rousses because of the traffic on the N5. A cycling route down to Morez via Premanon seems a much better alternative. Route barrée is posted at the beginning of the descent, but we ignore it and descend anyway. We ask an oncoming cyclist if we can get through. "More or less yes" is the reassuring answer. After a long fast descent we encounter the roadblock. We walk around the bulldozers but one of the road workers sends us back up. The stretch where they are working is only about ten meters so we ignore his advice and walk stubbornly past the reluctant road workers and climb back on the bike. A little further on we end up in the hustle and bustle of Morez and cycle along a narrow and very busy N5 to the upper Morbier where we find a cheap (€10) campsite. It has remained dry until then but in the evening heavy showers fall again.

Saturday 10/9 Morbier-Morteau (96 km 816 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102534278

Last night it rained continuously and it doesn't get dry until after 9:30 this morning, so quite a late start. Fortunately, we leave the busy roads aside and cycle along the D18A a forest road through the Forêt du Mont Noir towards Pontarlier. It is very cold (11 C) so the jackets have to be on, this is the coldest region of France and it shows. The route climbs some 1100m to Mouthe, the source of the Doubs and then descends mainly to Pontarlier. With a tailwind, we do quite a few kilometers. We arrive at Mouthe before noon, the planned stop for today, so we are half a day ahead of schedule. Just before Pontarlier we have to cross a very busy and narrow N57. We bike right through the pleasantly busy center and leave Pontarlier on the voie verte Le Chemin du Train, a 20km bike path to Gilley over a former railroad track. This one is not boring for a change. Often high above the valley with beautiful views, sometimes cut through the rocks, a very nice bike route. After Gilley we are chased by dark clouds but apart from a splash of rain we keep it dry. After a short climb, we descend to Morteau and camp at the campsite located at the edge of the center on the Doubs River. In the evening we walk to the not too lively center and have dinner at the bistro La Bousse. Luddo orders trout, but gets some kind of fish & chips, I order a Raclette burger (hamburger with a slice of Morbier cheese). Simple, but otherwise tastes fine and was served quickly. Going into the Swiss Jura tomorrow.

Sunday 11/9 Morteau – Delémont, Zwitserland (95 km 1263 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102658831

This morning a dense fog hangs over the campsite and it is quite cold. All layers are now on as we get on our bikes. First shopping in the village, the Intermarché turns out to be closed but the Casino nearby is open. We continue cycling towards the Swiss border along the D461 which is fortunately quiet now. Just outside Morteau the fog lifts and it becomes sunny, the long pants, sweater and jacket can be taken off. A quick stop at the bakery in Villers-le-Lac and then we cross the (unguarded) Swiss border at les Brenets. Here we climb a steep road out of the valley. Via the signposted mtb route 3 we cycle through the Gorges du Doubs to the Saut du Doubs. Because of the drought, this waterfall turns out to be just a pathetic little stream. The asphalt ends here and we cycle further up on a rough gravel path. After a few tunnels, the trail returns to a narrow and very steep asphalt road that leads to a plateau at an altitude of 1000m just above La Chaux de Fonds. Then we descend again on a wider road with many hairpins all the way to the Doubs and then climb out of the valley again on a narrow and super steep road with percentages of 10-15% The Wizard appears to be able to handle this very well, climbing is much better for me now than it was last year. I thought it was mainly because of the SPD shoes I left at home last year*.

Luddo is struggling a lot more because of his heavier luggage and is complaining about sucking Almotion tires which offer more resistance. When we arrive at the top of the plateau, a fun and excellently signposted cycling route through the Alpine meadows follows. The weather is nice and pleasant bells from the grazing cows. Wonderful cycling in Switzerland, quite different from France. Occasionally we have to open and close gates to cycle through the meadows. It is already in the afternoon when we start the descent to Delémont. We pass another beautiful gorge, the Gorges du Pichoux. The cycle path then runs parallel to a railroad line until Delémont. Just before Delémont, we reach the campsite, a somewhat dull campsite full of trailers. The facilities are ok, the price is probably steep, but we won't know until tomorrow morning because we can't pay at the moment. Tomorrow is the last ride to Basel. Then the plan is to take a French train to Strasbourg and then camp at a German station (Appenweier) to continue the day after tomorrow by train home.

*After returning home, I only found out that the rear shock I had swapped for my old shock before leaving had a much bigger impact on the steering. This is because the (newer) Cane Creek damper was leaking and actually too short. Therefore, as a precaution, I reinstalled my old shock with steel spring. This one turns out to be slightly longer, which provides more stable steering, especially important at lower climbing speeds.

Monday 12/9 Delémont – Basel (46 km 254 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102732840

This morning very fresh and foggy, 6 C. The price of the campsite is indeed not that good, €40, 3x as expensive as an average municipal campsite in France! Via cycle route 23 we cycle to Basel, often along the railroad via small roads, sometimes over a cycle lane along a busy N-road. In Basel SBB Bahnhof we draw 2 one-way tickets Strasbourg (€54) at a TER machine of the French railroads. Bicycles are free. The 12:12 train is already about to leave and the carriages have high boarding so the bikes have to be lifted into the train (without bags). Moreover, the places for bikes are cramped and they have to be hung vertically on hooks, which is not very convenient. The journey continues quickly with few stops and beautiful views of the Vosges Mountains. Dust masks are recommended but hardly anyone wears them.

Strasbourg – Sand (23 km)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102732841

At 1:40 pm we arrive at Strasbourg. The traffic in the center is not too bad and there are many bike paths. We explore the old beautiful city center while walking/cycling and then cycle towards Kehl, Germany where we get a Quer-Durchs-Land ticket and 2 bike tickets for tomorrow from the machine at the train station (€61). Then we bike to the village of Sand where we pitch our tents at a small campsite. Return home tomorrow from Appenweier by train.

Tuesday 13/9 Appenweier-Sand (6 km 21 hm)

https://ridewithgps.com/trips/102805730

Train (by Regionalbahn):

from Appenweier via Karlsruhe (1) - Neustadt a.d. Weibstrasse (2) - Kaiserslautern (3) - Koblenz (4) - Oberhausen (5) to Arnhem (6) and then further by NS to Utrecht and Amersfoort.

In the morning we leave the campsite a little after eight o'clock. It is only a short bike ride to the station in Appenweier and we have some time to buy provisions for the road at the local Edeka. At the station fortunately no hassle with elevators and the trains have level access. The train trip continues smoothly and follows a slightly different route than we are used to, not through the boring Rhine valley but through the Pfalz and the Hunsrück to Koblenz. It is very quiet in the trains compared to the trains on the outward journey (because no more 9 euro tickets).

In Koblenz follows another bottleneck at the elevators where many cyclists want to go up including two very heavy e-bikers with whom the elevator has problems. Fortunately we have plenty of time for the transfer to Wesel. On the way to Wesel we are almost thrown off the train by the Corona Polizei (3 men strong). I did not have my Vive le velo mask on my nose properly and Luddo was doing it all wrong with his Batik cloth. He was kindly but urgently requested to put on an FFP2 mask. No word on mine, which probably looked good enough because of light blue colour ;-)

As usual, in Oberhausen we change trains to Arnhem: same platform, no hassle with small elevators as in Düsseldorf. This train is again very crowded and very little room for bikes. In Arnhem we can change trains quickly to be home before sunset.