Sunday 24
June, 130 km Malm-Namsos-Salsnes-Lund (ferry)-Hofles
(camping)
After Malm I
follow the Kystriksveien (Coastal Route) to
Namsos. Road 17 from Steinkjer to Bodø is a
scenic, north bound alternative route to avoid
the busy traffic of the E6. From Namsos, where
the 17 heads inland, I follow route 769. A scenic,
narrow road along the beautiful rocky coastline.
Unfortunately, some road constructions force me
to push the bike a few kilometer over dirt roads
:-(
I arrive late in
the evening at the ferry port in Lund and wait a
few hours for the next ferry. In the cafe I have
dinner and pick up a copy of the free brochure Kystriksveien. The travel guide is very
convenient, it contains ferry timetables, tourist
information and services (camping, shops) along
route 17. There's even a chapter for bicycle
tourists, including a tunnel guide. Very
recommended!
Monday 25
June, 96 km
Hofles-Kolvereid-Holm-(ferry)-Vennesund-Vik
Time to do some
shopping. The small village of Kolvereid has a
surprisingly big shopping centre, with two
supermarkets, a bank, library (to check e-mail),
photoshop (for a new lithium battery), hardware
store (rød sprit for my stove) and even a
bicycle shop! Unfortunately nobody in the shop is
able to help me with my Gripshit troubles. From
Kolvereid I take road 771 until I finally hit the
"17" again near the Heilhornet mountain.
Another ferry from Holm takes me to Sømna island.
A bumpy backroad near Vik leads to the campground
Bjørnvika.
Tuesday 26
June, 74 km
Vik-Brønnøysund-Torghatten-Brønnøysund
In Vik I pass an
outdoor store. If they sell mountain bikes, they
may have some parts too... To my luck they have
some left-over Sram-shifters, including the so
needed internal metal spring! I can have it for
free and my shifter is functioning again!
From Brønnøysund
I cross a huge and steep bridge to the Island
Torget where I visit Torghatten, a mountain with
a hole in it. Before visiting the hole, I have to
fix another one in my flat front tyre. The hole
in the mountain is reached by a steep trail. You
can actually walk through the impressive, 35 m
high and 160 m long "tunnel" straight
through the mountain. Back in Brønnøysund I
stay on the pleasant and quiet Mosheim camping.
Torghatten
Wednesday
27 June, 100 km
Brønnøysund-Horn
(ferry)-Anndalsvåg-Forvik (ferry)-Tjøtta-Sandnessjøen-Levang
(ferry)-Nesna (camping)
This day I plan to
take a lot of ferry crossings and therefore have
to follow a tight schedule. For the 17 km long
stretch between Anndalsvåg and Forvik I have 1½
hour. Luckily the terrain is flat and I can catch
the next ferry to Tjøtta without hurry. Thanks
to the Warm Gulfstream this area is remarkably
dense populated, not as remote as expected.
Forvik
-Tjøtta ferry (l) - Sju Søstre (r)
The overcast
conditions make place for sunny spells. The
mountain range of the Sju Søstre (7 sisters) is
now clearly visible. Near Sandnessjøen I pass
the impressive and steep Helgelandsbridge. The
last 20 km I make some speed to reach the17 hr
ferry to Nesna. In this beautifully located town,
surrounded by snow capped mountains, I camp at
the crowded campground next to the ferry harbour.
Nesna
Thursday 28
June, 128 km
Nesna-Utskarpen-Kilboghamn
(ferry)-Jektvik-Tjong-Ågskardet (ferry)-Forøy (camping)
About 10 km from
Nesna a strenuous climb of 4 km length to
Sjonfjellet. During the climb (max. 10%) a
reindeer crosses my path. On top of the 300 m.
high plateau nice views and a nice conversation
with a Dutch couple who inspect campgrounds. On
the opposite side of the fjord you have a good
view of the coastal road. Less than a few
kilometres away and yet 40 km of cycling along
the fjord. After Utskarpen I have to pass several
long tunnels. These are well lit, so I pass them
without any problems.
Sjonfjellet
On the ferry Kilboghamn-Jektvik I
pass the Artic circle, marked by a sundial along
the rocky coastline. I cook a pasta meal at a
sheltered pciknickspot along the beautiful
Tjongsfjord. The last ferry of today is to Forøy,
where I find a crowded campground with more than
a few mosquitos (the first I've encountered this
trip, not too bad!)
Tjongsfjord
Friday 29
June, 67 km
Forøy-Halsa-Holand-Halsa-Vassdalsvik
(ferry)-Ørnes-Mevik (camping)
The Svartisen
tunnel to Glomfjord is forbidden for cyclists. An
alternative route is a ferry from Vassdalsvik to
Ørnes. The next one leaves at 14.30, plenty of
time to cycle the 30 kilometre and a detour to
Holand. From road 17 I have a good view of the
Engabreen glacier. Through foggy and drizzly
weather conditions I return back to Halsa and
head to Vassdalsvik. At the Mevik campground I do
my laundry and hang it to dry in the garage of a
friendly campground manager.
Holandsfjord, Svartisen/Engabreen
gletsjer
Saturday 30
June, 115 km
Mevik-Storvik-Kjøpstad-Saltstraumen-Bodø
(ferry)-Moskenes-Å
After a very early,
sunny start, it starts drizzling again. I am too
early to witnes the famous tidal currents of
Saltstraumen. Near Bodø drizzles turn to heavy
showers and I have to wait for a while in a bus
shelter. The city centre of Bodø has a very
American atmosphere with its rectangular street
pattern and indoor shopping mall. At the ferry
terminal I purchase a ticket for the evening
ferry to Moskenes, Lofoten and have a chat with
two other cycle tourists. To my surprise one
cyclist, the German photographer Reinhard, has already heard of my
Gripshit troubles. He'd met the Swiss guy Mats,
whom I met one week ago.
Because of a very
rough sea, the ferry trip is not very comfortable.
An hour or so before midnight we approach Lofoten
and all of a sudden impressive mountain walls
appear though the thick clouds. Due to the soft
light of the midnight sun a fantastic, almost
spooky sight. After inspecting a very wet and
windy campground next to the harbour, I cycle
with the two other cyclists to Å, at the end of
the road. Here we pitch our tents at a very
scenic campground.
Lofoten
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